And what I ate was even more exciting: an invigorating salmon ponzu roll, sweet and piquant from the inclusion of orange slices and toasted garlic to dress the tender chunks of salmon. I also enjoyed its heavier, richer counterpart, the tuna aioli, laced with rich pepper mayonnaise, thai chilis, shallots, and some cucumbers to cut the heat, all abed a fluffy mound of white rice.